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Beijing's historic, cultural, and political preeminence dates back nearly six centuries. Yet, in spite of devastating urban renewal, modern Beijing continues to convey an imperial grandeur. New temples to communism -- the Great Hall of the People, Chairman Mao's Mausoleum -- convey the monumental power that still resides within the city's secret courtyards.

Its 12 million residents are a compelling mix of old and new. Early morning taiqi (tai chi) enthusiasts, bearded old men with caged songbirds, and amateur Peking Opera crooners still frequent the city's many charming parks. Cyclists, most pedaling cumbersome, jet-black Flying Pigeons, clog the roadways. But few wear padded blue Mao jackets these days, and they all must share the city's broad thoroughfares with trendy Chinese yuppies and their private cars.

Beijing is as well supplied with glitzy, comfortable hotels. What it lacks in variety it makes up for in quantity. Grandiose lobbies, air-conditioned elevators, coffee lounges, and 15th-floor guest rooms -- all lacking in Chinese flavor -- are the norm. Most major hotels have facilities such as business centers, health clubs, Chinese and Western restaurants, nightclubs, karaoke, and beauty salons. Gone are the days of surly service, when hotel staffs were often unwilling to interrupt their meals or naps to attend to a guest. Today most hotels will book restaurants, taxis, cars with drivers, and travel tickets.

Some traditional courtyard houses, on the other hand, have been converted into small hotels -- a quiet alternative to the Western-style establishments. Courtyard hotels usually have a more distinct Chinese character, but those in older buildings may be lacking in the range and standard of facilities.

Often managed by entrepreneurs who bought the courtyard houses from people who once lived there, these hotels are not necessarily glamorous dwellings of rich families, but simply a modern invention. Given that fewer and fewer old courtyards exist in China, courtyard hotels are often favored by savvy travelers who go to China for its history. Because of the smaller number of rooms in courtyard hotels, reservations are important.

Summer is the peak tourist season, and hotels and transportation can be very crowded. Book early-several months in advance if possible-for summer travel. The weather can be scorching in the summer in most of China. The weather will be better and the crowds not quite as dense in late spring and early fall, although be prepared for rain. Winter is bitterly cold and not conducive to travel in most of China. Avoid traveling around Chinese New Year, as much of China shuts down and the Chinese themselves travel, making reservations into and out of China virtually impossible to get.

Be prepared for rain at any time of year.

What follows are average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for Beijing:
January, 14-34°F (-10-1°C);
February, 18-39°F (-8-4°C);
March, 30-52°F (-1-11°C);
April, 45-70°F (7-21°C);
May, 55-81°F (13-27°C);
June, 64-88°F (18-31°C);
July, 70-88°F (21-31°C);
August, 68-86°F (20-30°C);
September, 57-79°F (14-26°C);
October, 43-68°F (6-20°C);
November, 28-48°F (-2-9°C);
December, 18-37°F (-8-3°C).

By Air

Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) is 25 km (16 mi) northeast of city center. It has outgrown its capacity to handle Beijing's burgeoning passenger loads, both international and domestic, and functions in near chaos during peak periods. A new, larger terminal is under construction south of the main building.

Departing international passengers must pay a Y90 airport tax (payable only in RMB) before check-in. Coupons are sold at booths inside the terminal and collected at the entrance to the main departure hall. After checking in, plan on long lines at immigration, especially in the morning.

Flying time to Beijing is approximately 10 hours from London.

Between the Airport & Town

By Bus

The shuttle bus (Y12) terminal is outside gate 5 of the terminal building. There are two routes (A or B) clearly marked in English and Chinese to indicate areas served. on board, stops are announced in English and Chinese. Route A runs between the airport and the Beijing railway station, stopping at the airport expressway/Third Ring Road intersection, Lufthansa Centre, Kunlun Hotel, Great Wall Sheraton Hotel, Dongzhimen subway station/Second Ring Road, Hong Kong Macau Center (Swissotel), Chaoyangmen subway station, and one block north of theBeijing train station/Beijing International Hotel. Route B runs from the airport to the CAAC ticket office on Changan Dajie. It travels west along the Third Ring Road, following it south to Changan Jie. Stops include the SAS Hotel, Asian Games Village, Friendship Hotel, and Shangri-La Hotel.

By Hotel Shuttle

The easiest way to get from Capital Airport to Beijing is by hotel shuttle. Most major hotels have representatives at the airport able to arrange a car or minivan. Departing visitors should prebook transportation through their hotels.

By Taxi

The taxi queue is just outside the terminal beyond a small covered parking area. The line (usually long) moves quickly. Do not accept rides from drivers who try to coax you from the queue. These privateers are often crooks. At the head of the line, a dispatcher will give you your taxi's number, useful in case of complaints or forgotten luggage. Insist that drivers use their meters, and do not agree to negotiate a price. If the driver is unwilling to comply, feel free to change taxis. Most of the taxis that serve the airport are large models. Flag fall is Y12 (good for 3 1/2 km) plus Y2 per additional km. Passengers are expected to pay the Y10 toll for the airport expressway. If you're caught in rush hour traffic, expect standing surcharges. In light traffic, it takes about 30 minutes to reach Beijing's eastern district. During the morning and evening commutes, allow at least 45 minutes. For the city center, expect a one-hour cab ride. After 11 PM, taxis charge a 20% late-night surcharge. There are no extra charges for luggage.

By Bus

Beijing is served by four long-distance bus stations: Dongzhimen (northeast; Dongzhimenwaixie Jie, Chaoyang District, tel. 010/6348-4995), Haihutun (south; Yongwai Chezan Lu, Fengtai District, tel. 010/6256-6232), Beijiao, also called Deshengmen (north; Deshengmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District, tel. 010/6403-3980), and Majuan (east; Guangqumenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District, tel. 010/6525-7877). Long-distance buses are usually quite basic-much like an old-fashioned school bus-although some overnight buses now have two decks with reclining seating.

By Train

Beijing is served by four stations: the Beijing Main Station and the Beijing West, North, and South stations.

Most domestic routes depart from the massive Beijing Xi Zhan (West Station; Lianhuachi Dong Lu, Haidian District, tel. 010/6321-4269), Beijing's most modern, but some major city routes still depart the Beijing Zhan (Main Station; Beijing Zhan Jie, Dongcheng District, tel. 010/6563-4422), as do international routes to Hong Kong or Siberia.

Foreigners must buy tickets at the Main Station's International Passenger Booking Office. Tickets are sold up to five days in advance. Book early to insure a seat. Ticket office hours are 5:30-7:30 AM, 8 AM-5:30 PM, and 7 PM-12:30 AM.

General Info: Train tickets on the mainland usually have to be purchased in the city of origin. If you do not speak Mandarin, it will be difficult to negotiate the ticket windows at the train station, so buy tickets from the local China Travel Service office or ask your hotel concierge to make the arrangements. It is best to make train reservations at least a day or two in advance, if possible.

Although China's classless society has all but disappeared, the train system offers a glimpse of old-fashioned socialist euphemisms. Instead of first-class and second-class accommodations, passengers choose hard seat or soft seat, and for overnight journeys, hard sleeper or soft sleeper.

Trains are always crowded, so arrive at the station two hours before departure.

By Bicycle

Beijing is made for pedaling. All the city's main boulevards and many secondary streets have wide, well-defined bike lanes often separated from other traffic by an island with hedges or trees. If a flat tire or sudden brake failure strikes, seek out the nearest street-side mechanic (they're everywhere), easily identified by their bike parts and pumps.

By Bus

Getting on or off a Beijing city bus is often, quite literally, a fight. Buses are hot and crowded in summer and cold and crowded in winter. If you choose the bus-and you shouldn't-watch your belongings very carefully.

By Car

Drivers in China navigate by following road signs and asking directions. Most roads don't have names or numbers. Taxi drivers who don't know an exact location will find out what a sight is near, drive there, and ask for specific directions.

Car Rentals

Car rentals are not recommended and generally not available in China. Some local rentals are now possible in Beijing, but only for driving within the city. It is possible, however, to hire a car with a driver for the day, and the costs in most Chinese cities are reasonable. In China, check with your hotel concierge or local CTS office about car hires. Many hotels also have bicycles for rent at very inexpensive day rates.

Requirements

In China your own driver's license is not acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the American or Canadian automobile association, or, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club.

By Pedicab

Pedicabs were once the vehicle of choice for Beijingers laden with a week's worth of grocery shopping or tourists eager for a street-eye city tour. Today, however, residents are wealthy enough to bundle their purchases into taxis, and the tourist trade has moved on to the tight schedules of air-conditioned buses. But pedicabs still can be hired outside the Friendship Store on Jianguomenwai Dajie and near major tourist sites. Be sure to negotiate the fare in advance, clarifying which currency will be used in payment (Y or US$), whether the fare is considered a one-way or round-trip (some drivers will demand return fares whether or not you come along), and whether it is for one person or two. Fares start at Y10 for short distances.

By Subway

Beijing's two subway lines are packed during rush hour but offer convenient travel on off-hours. There are two lines: one circles Beijing beneath the Second Ring Road and the other bisects the city east-to-west from Xidan to the western suburbs. The lines run close (but do not meet) near Fusxingmen. The subway runs from 5 AM to 10:30 PM daily. Fares are Y2 per ride for any distance.

By Taxi

There are three classes of taxis in Beijing. The cheapest-and most ubiquitous-are the "miandi" (breadloaf vans), tiny minivans usually painted bright yellow. These vehicles cost only Y10 at flag fall and must travel 10 km (6 mi) before the Y1.5 per km meter kicks in. While miandi are certainly a bargain, these taxis are often filthy and falling apart. Two other drawbacks: many miandi drivers are newcomers to Beijing and therefore don't know their way around the city; and miandi are banned from certain roads, so cross-city trips in them can take a whole lot longer than in bigger cabs. A second, and better, grade of taxi is the "xiali," a domestically produced car reminiscent of the first Honda hatchbacks. Tall people find xialis cramped. Flag fall for these taxis is Y10.4 for the first 3 1/2 km (2 mi) and Y1.6 per km thereafter. A 20% nighttime surcharge is added after 11 PM. At the top end are the sedans found waiting at the airport, major hotels, and large tourist sites. They're clean, comfortable, and expensive. Flag fall is Y12 for the first 3 1/2 km (2 mi) and Y2 per km thereafter. A 20% nighttime surcharge kicks in at 11 PM. Be sure to check that the meter has been engaged (the meter is usually found near the gear shift) to avoid fare negotiations at your destination.

On Foot

Beijing is sprawling. City blocks are very large. To avoid arriving exhausted at sites that appeared deceptively close on the map, walk around sites rather than between them. Ration your foot time for Beijing's intriguing back alleys.

Until the late 1970s the best night out most Beijingers could hope for was dinner at a friend's apartment followed by a sing-along. Since then China's economic boom has brought countless karaoke venues and small discos, which form the backbone of Beijing's nightlife. More affluent people head for the huge new cabaret and restaurant complexes around Third Ring Road. Some restaurants compete with the clubs by offering live music, belly dancers, or other floor shows. Prostitution (illegal in China) is common in many bars and clubs, which may have back rooms for that purpose. Peking opera, strangled almost to death in the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), has revived just enough to generate some interest among the older generations.

With the demise of staid, state-run canteens, where quality gave way to quantity and canteen workers took precedence over diners, Beijing dining has undergone an even greater revolution than other sectors of the economy. Countless small, private restaurants mushroomed across the city in the 1990s. Even now, almost every day sees the opening of another bold venture into culinary capitalism. Most Beijingers frequent these cheap and cheerful places, which sometimes double as bars and karaoke venues.

Peking duck is the most famous dish of the capital, though it is normally available only in specialist or larger restaurants. Imperial-style banquets offer a contrast to staples like noodles and jiaozi (meat- and vegetable-filled dumplings). Vying with the local dishes are authentic specialties from such faraway regions as Guangdong, Hunan, Sichuan, Yunnan, Xinjiang, and even Inner Mongolia and Tibet. Western restaurants and fast-food outlets -- both Chinese versions and the global franchises -- have also taken root.

Against all this competition from inside and outside China, traditional-style Beijing dining is making a comeback. Waiters (the tradition extends to a male-only staff) whisk dishes through crowded, lively restaurants furnished with wooden menu boards and lacquered square tables. Doormen, dressed (like the waiters) in traditional cotton jackets, loudly announce each arrival and departure.

Casual attire is acceptable in most Beijing restaurants.

The arrival of numerous modern shopping malls, department stores, and groceries is squeezing Beijing's traditional markets. But, for now, most people still rely on street stalls for their produce, meat, dry goods, and other household items. The city's trendiest shopping district, Wangfujing, offers shoppers (and window-shoppers) an array of swank boutiques and department stores. For a more traditional flavor -- and bargain reproduction antiques -- try the Sunday market at Panjiayuan.

Beijing rewards the explorer. Most temples and palaces have gardens and lesser courtyards that are seldom visited. Be curious. Even at the height of the summer tourist rush, the Forbidden City's peripheral courtyards offer ample breathing room, even seclusion. The Temple of Heaven's vast grounds are a pleasure year-round -- and enchanting during a snowstorm.

Although the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square represent the heart of Beijing from imperial and tourist perspectives, the capital lacks a definitive downtown area in terms of shopping (with the exception, perhaps, of Wangfujing) or business, as commercial and entertainment districts have arisen all over.

Outside the city, budget time for hiking. Explore the Ming Tombs or the Eastern Qing Tombs on foot and picnic in the ruins (a tradition among Beijing's expatriate community since the 1920s). Most upscale hotels offer elegant boxed lunches. If you've hired a car to the Great Wall, consider venturing a bit farther into the countryside where farming villages await. Don't be surprised when local farmers invite you into their homes for a rest and some tea.